What Thread Size Is My Shifter
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SPECIFIC THREAD – UNIVERSAL ADAPTER – LOKAR – COLUMN SHIFT
FOR PRIMARILY FLOOR OR CONSOLE SHIFT APPLICATIONS
(NOTE: I need to state now that SpeedShifter Knobs DO NOT work on floor shifters that have a reverse lock-out button built into the knob from the factory)
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If you’re upgrading from stock to cool, you’ll need to let me know your shifter’s thread pitch. Figuring out yours, if you don’t already know, is just a couple painless steps. Getting your stock knob off means basically unscrewing it from the shift arm. Check to see if yours might have a jam-nut, locknut, or flange-nut under the knob. Loosen that first. Or, if yours has hex-allen set-screws, loosen those first. Once off, check the thread size: male and female will be the same. So, you could check either the knob threads, or the shift rod threads. If you need to, any store with “hardware” in its name will have a set of thread-checkers - swing by, they are always happy and helpful. I’ve got a gear drawer full of threaded inserts to fit any vehicle, both SAE and metric. Over the decades, and hundreds of make and models later, you might think there would be an equal number of threaded end shift arms. Fortunately, that’s not so. There’s a bunch, just not hundreds. Let me know yours and I’ll install the correct insert in your new knob. These are the most common. If you’ve got something different, it's probably not an issue.
Just let me know what you have.
SAE
-5/16 x 18
-3/8 x 16
-3/8 x 24
-7/16 x 20
-1/2 x 13
-1/2 x 20
METRIC
-8 x 1.25
-10 x 1.25
-10 x 1.5
-12 x 1.25
-12 x 1.5
-12 x 1.75
-14 x 1.5
-16 x 1.5
BASIC INSTALLATION FOR SPEEDSHIFTER KNOBS
- Clean the threads on your shift arm with alcohol or another de-greaser
- Spin the locknut down your shift arm before the knob goes on
- Put on one or two drops of a “medium-set” liquid thread-lok on the threads of the shift arm. I recommend Permatex Blue
- Install the knob being careful not to “bottom out” the knob – turn it all the way down until it snugs to the tip of the shift arm and then back it off until it is in your desired position.
- Spin the locknut up until it is against the bottom of the knob, and snug this with a wrench or plier. But don’t crank on this - don’t try to make it super tight. Snug is sufficient, and again a drop of liquid thread-lok would be good here.
THE UNIVERSAL ADAPTER
If your shift rod does not have threads? No sweat – I’ve got hardware for this too. Some shifters and custom builds use smooth shafts instead of threaded ends. In these cases, you’ll need a universal adapter. This type of set-up is also great for unknown or worn thread situations.
I’ve got two universal versions available – a black one and a silver one, and I’d be happy to send you a photo to see the difference. I don’t make these. So, I’m limited in this area to what is currently available from vendors. I’ve tested all and feel these are the absolute best for function and looks. They employ a nylon insert, with hex-allen set-screws to lock onto your shift arm. I install the universal adapter permanently to the knob and then you select the insert which corresponds in size to your shift rod diameter. Inserts range in size from 5/16 to 9/16. The kit has four to choose from. Pick the one that fits your shifter snuggest. Installation is easy and all you need is included
(NOTE: I need to state again that SpeedShifter Knobs DO NOT work on floor shifters that have a reverse lock-out button built into the knob from the factory)
LOKAR ADAPTER
Lokar shifters are often used in custom and hot rod builds. I have factory authorized adapters that I can install on any SpeedShifter knob. These adapters come direct from Lokar and are made by Lokar. So quality is assured. Added expense for a Lokar adapter is only what they cost me, direct from Lokar.
I will install the base of the adapter to your new custom knob, and will send you all the necessary Lokar parts to install onto your shift rod. Full Lokar instructions will accompany the knob so that it will be fully functional with the Lokar shift/reverse system. These adapters work great and allow you to have a snazzy custom shift knob.
COLUMN SHIFT ARM KNOBS AND TURN SIGNAL KNOBS
The biggest speedbump to this is getting your stock knob off. If yours already comes off easily or is possibly missing, you can skip the following discussion. Go down to the fun section.
Knobs on the ends of factory column shafts are attached using assorted methods. Some are molded in place onto the arm. Some are press-fit onto the arm. NONE, are screwed onto the arm, (at least that I am aware of). And NONE are easy to get off. If yours are currently loose or missing, chances are it’s a result of inadequate manufacturing years ago.
So this is what you get to do… cut.
How you approach your individual situation is your call. Don’t hesitate to reach out to me for suggestions. Send me a picture and I will share tips on what I think would work best for you.
- Soak the gap between the rod and knob with WD-40 or similar penetrating oil
- Use a Dremel, or similar cutting tool, with a small blade or burr
- Hack-saw blades tend not to be useful in this task
If it’s a plastic knob, just cut on that until you get down to core steel. Some high-end cars (Cadillac, Lincoln, etc.) have a metal knob – this requires grinding pieces off with a cut-off wheel. Be sure you are committed to this because once you start, there’s not going back. And do something to protect your dash, carpet and upholstery.
One other approach to this if it looks like cutting and grinding is too daunting. You can simply cut the knob off right at its base. Its cutting the knob off plus a section of the shift arm itself. This means a slightly shorter shift arm, but I can compensate by making a new, slightly longer, knob.
Okay, so that is the tough part. This now is the easy part. All I need to know, for your new custom knob, is the diameter of your shifter arm, and how deep to drill the knob. I drill this for you. All of this information applies to the shifter arm, the turn signal arm, and should you have a tilt-column knob, I can deal with that too.
Final installation of a new custom knob is straight forward. I recommend Devcon Plastic Welder but a similar plastic to steel bonder will work too. Standard epoxy if fine, however, over the years doing these I’ve learned that regular epoxy tends to lose its bonding capabilities after a year or so. Definitely do not use any quick-set epoxy.
Please, contact me with any questions. I answer all and will be happy to help in any way I can.
